Showing posts with label CHM. Show all posts
Showing posts with label CHM. Show all posts

Sunday, December 12, 2010

Return to the Second City

Essays are finished, my sketchbook filled with drawings of questionable quality has been turned in, and I've worked very hard to stop thinking about the rococo armchair I misidentified on an exam. I woke up this morning in a tiny bedroom under a flight of stairs, looking out on a snow-covered street and thinking, "thank goodness I have my snowboots," and that can only mean one thing: I'm back in Chicago, baby!

My plans for the next few days are simple: visit friends at the Chicago History Museum, relish in the presence of public transportation, and eat everything, everywhere. And then I hop in the car with one of my oldest friends and we drive south for an epic roadtrip that will eventually take us home to California! All in all, I think this is shaping up to be a remarkable winter break.

Friday, February 12, 2010

"Unprintable acts."

Why I love my job, reason #5,021:
I'm researching a man named Oscar W. Brecher, whose wedding suit is in our collection. A quick google search brings up this article in the New York Times archives: "To Take Boy from Sun-Worshippers." In 1910, our friend Oscar was part of an attempt to rescue the boy-heir to a Philadelphia fortune from a cult of sun-worshippers who were planning to do something (probably nefarious, knowing those sun-worshipping types) with the boy and his money. Oscar was appointed his temporary guardian while the courts tried to figure out what to do with him and his mother, who had been implicated in the kidnapping plot.

Ten years later the leader of the cult, Zar Adusht-Hanish, was arrested on charges of "unprintable" acts against five children in Los Angeles, so unfortunately the story becomes much more serious. But still... SUN-WORSHIPPERS.

Sun-worshippers! Cults! Young boys with excessive amounts of money! Wedding suits! It reads like a late 19th century pulp novel, only it's my morning.

Friday, October 9, 2009

The tell-tale wombs of Lewiston, Maine

I spend a large portion of my working hours in a basement filled with boxes upon boxes of clothes. It's a little like being at a perpetual rummage sale, only you can't touch, try on, or buy any of the objects. And because I spend so much time in a basement, carving ethylfoam and cutting muslin to make costume mounts, flouncing ruffles and vacuuming dust out of pleats, and struggling with stacks of boxes filled with 19th century bicycling outfits (surprisingly adorable, PS), I also listen to a lot of radio.

Specifically, NPR. The radio in the South Costume Storage (the fancy name for my basement lair) is an analog dial radio, which means that changing the frequency is an exercise in dread, trepidation, and ultimate futility. To avoid the heartache of listening to static as I gamely turn the dial in search of music, I usually just keep it on NPR all the time. That means I get a lot of depressing BBC World Service stories (sorry, my British brethren, but your news, while poshly-spoken, is a bit of a downer), more pledge drives than I can shake a stick at, The Story from North Carolina (underappreciated and very interesting!) and, at 3 pm, All Things Considered.

All of this is meant as a lead-up to this announcement: if you haven't listened to the All Things Considered story on healthcare (part 1 of scheduled 3) that broadcast yesterday, DO IT. "The Tell-Tale Wombs of Lewiston, Maine," besides having a totally creepy and awesome title, is a fascinating look at why the heck healthcare in America costs so damn much, using the town of Lewiston as a case study. Maybe it's just that I don't actually know that much about the healthcare debate (except that as a technically unemployed young person, I'd like some, pretty please!) but I found it full of fascinating facts, disturbing realities, and strongly persuasive in addressing the need for a really dramatic overhaul of the American healthcare system.

So nu, what are you waiting for? Go! Listen! And tell me what you think!

Thursday, August 13, 2009

Dressing down

So, like most cultural institutions, the Chicago History Museum has a blog. It's a pretty neat resource and a great way to get an inside look into the dark and dirty workings of a museum. My favorite entry? The one about de-installing Chic Chicago, the huge costume exhibit that was up from summer of 2008 until last month.

I was part of the de-installation team, so if you want to get a look at the sort of work I do on a daily basis, check out the slideshow of the de-installation process. I show up about half-way through - see if you can spot me!

Okay, and my favorite picture from the entire slideshow is the one of me on my knees in front of a huge dress, called the butterfly gown. If it looks like I'm sticking my head and arms up under the skirt, that's because I am. We were trying to push a built-out support peice (what essentially amounts to a body pillow) through the torso of the gown to make sure it doesn't collapse under it's own weight in storage. A worthy endeavor, certainly, but one that made it look like I was giving the gown a very thorough pelvic exam. Say it with me now: "awkward."

Thursday, July 9, 2009

Just another face in the crowd

A piece of advice, current and future breeders?

Let's say you've been thinking long and hard about what to name the spawn. You've been pouring over baby name books, looking back into the family tree, pondering what names are least likely to get the shit kicked out of little Junior on the playground, etc. And let's say that you've settled on something straightforward, common and unlikely to lead strangers to purse their lips and say, "huh?" after Junior introduces himself. "Job well done," you think to yourself.

WELL THINK AGAIN.

I have just spent the last 40 minutes trying to sift through the bajillion "Mary O'Briens" on the internet to find the ONE who was born in 1886 and died in Chicago in 1980. Even Ancestry.com, which is usually pretty good at finding that boring-named needle in it's equally whitebread haystack, has given me the website equivalent of, "bitch, please!" Normal names don't do your kid any good. They just make them exactly like all the other normal-named folks in the world. And when some poor museum intern is trying to track down information on your illustrious son Jack Smith, they aren't going to appreciate all your forethought.

Yeah, sure, little Hanchen Xoxctl Smith might get some bloody noses at recess, but when she's famous, dead, and on the internet she'll thank you.

Friday, July 3, 2009

"Chicago is not the most corrupt American city. It's the most theatrically corrupt."


Yesterday I handled clothes worn by this man. Some of his belongings are being added to the museum's collection, so I had the honor of examining his wool trousers, classic red socks, worn-out fedora and of course the outerwear of reporters everywhere, the Burberry trench coat. And the crowning jewel? His old-man's terry-cloth bathrobe.

It's kind of funny - if you're famous or important, eventually every aspect of your life, every mundane moment or embarrassing tchotchke, will be combed over with a magnifiying glass by well-meaning museum interns like myself. Once you die the materials of your life, the stuff that you surrounded yourself with, becomes the historical playground for museum professionals and academics attempting to reconstruct your life. What was perfectly normal and boring to you - that ratty stuffed bear from your childhood, your toothbrush - becomes a testament to your importance.

The moral of the story? If you plan on doing something important and influential with your life, make sure that you throw out all your granny panties, hole-y socks, and unflattering house dresses before you die. And for goodness sake, PLEASE clean your bathrobe. Those interns of the future have to get up close and personal with it, and they don't need to see the remains of your egg breakfast on it.

Sunday, June 21, 2009

Adventures in Hot Glue Gunning, part 3

I finally got around to uploading photos from my shiny new camera (thanks, parents, for the birthday gift!) and discovered deep in the bowels of my memory card the pictures I had taken of my failed Gibson Girl paper wig.

Here she is, in all her 18th century/Linda Evangelista glory:


Bertha Honore Palmer, circa 1893 she is not. Not so bad, though, for some blotting paper, tissues, pantyhose and a glue gun, right? Just call me the MacGyver of the museum world.

Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Kicking ass and taking names, one bustle at a time.


Despite not getting paid for my job, I finally feel like a real live museum professional. Why? Because the first show I have ever worked on, Bertha Honore Palmer , opened this past Saturday at the Chicago History Museum and it is quite beautiful, if I do say so myself.

The show tells the story of Bertha Honore Palmer, the wife of Potter Palmer I and one of the most influential women in Chicago and even America at the turn of the century. As the grand dame of Chicago society she spearheaded the Women's Board of the World's Columbian Exposition of 1893, gave the job of designing the Women's Building at the Fair to America's first female architect, and comissioned reports on the status and lifestyles of women across the world. She was a mover-and-shaker abroad as well, dazzling Europe with her charisma and forceful personality. Palmer House, the famous Chicago hotel, was a wedding gift to her from Potter. When he died he left her with eight million dollars; by the time she died she'd turned it into 16 million. She was, in short, a force to be reckoned with.

Now, this isn't MY show - most of the work I did involved building out mannequins, dressing them, and doing some trouble-shooting with lambskin gloves and a lot of fiber-fill. Still, my name is on the credits under the intern title, and when I walk past the textile gallery and see all the visitors oohing and ahhing over my favorite voided-velvet gown or the goofy evening coat with the fringe I spent HOURS carefully combing out, I can't help but feel a little proud.
Is this what being an adult feels like? Because minus the bill paying and the cleaning-your-own-house bit, it's kind of cool!

Thursday, May 14, 2009

Deep thoughts about history, feminism, clothes, and so on.

So I've been thinking a lot about this costume collection internship, and what makes it so different from my stint at Grey Towers (and isn't it funny that I've basically turned being a perpetual intern into my post-college career plan?), and while I was sorting through scads of wedding gown information today I think I finally put my finger on it.

I love history, right? Because it's tells us about ourselves or other people (or ourselves AND other people), and about where we come from and what we're heading for and ultimately, what we need to do (and avoid doing) to make the world a better place. And because it's awesome. But to be honest, the majority of history we encounter is dude-focused. And while I am certainly a fan of dudes, sometimes it gets a bit old.

And I don't mean this in a "damn the Man, down with the Patriarchy" sort of way (although really, damn the Man, down with the Patriarchy). It's just that the events that we memorize, the wars we commemorate, the nation-building we praise or deride, all of it reflects the work of men. And it's not just how we learn history in school, either. Look at the collection of any history museum and you'll see famous documents, antique guns, impressive furniture, important pieces of art - all made for or by men. And sure, there are pieces of a museum's collection that relate to women, but those are almost always a minority . Except, of course, in costume collections. At the Chicago History Museum, our costume collection is probably 85% women's clothes. The number of men's clothes are FAR outmatched by women's, and the women's clothes tell a much richer and deeper story. They span centuries, countries, ages and class levels.

Really, what I love about costume collections is not just that they showcase pretty clothes (though they do), or that they're amazing capsules of history (although they are.) What I love about them is that they don't just tell history - they tell the history of women. What a woman in a given time period valued, what she had to account for in her daily life, how she lived, even what she was called by those around here; it's all there in her dress.

Wednesday, May 13, 2009

More fake than a tan in February

It's still all weddings, all the time at the museum, and I've been wading through piles of gowns writing up document reports and taking photographs of them for the exhibition notebook. All of which is great, especially when I run into antique breast implants.

Or, if not breast implants, than certainly the world's original push-up bra. One of the wedding dresses I handled, a gorgeous cream silk taffeta from 1851 with three-quarter sleeves, a deep v-neck (which was pretty rare - most of the other wedding dresses we have from that decade have a wide bateau neck and cap sleeves), and some crazy diagonal ruching, also had built in breast-pads. The entire chest area was extra thick, with round pads made of cotton batting sewn into the bosom.

I guess the more things change, the more things stay the same. Female insecurity and the need to live up to the expectations of a society that objectifies the female form don't really disappear from century to century. I don't know why I'm surprised - after all, this is the same society that forced women into constricting corsets and advocated removing a rib to make them skinnier. I guess it's just because the big-breast thing seems like such a hallmark of the silicone age.

Of course, I could be overthinking this... maybe our anonymous 1850's bride was just sick of being part of the itty-bitty titty committee and decided to do something about. After all, it's her party, and she'll enhance her chest if she wants to.

Wednesday, April 1, 2009

Nobody knows the troubles I've seen

The problem with working in a costume collection filled with gorgeous designer clothes, antique ball gowns and avant-garde cutting edge fashion? I'm totally broke, and all I want to do is shop. I think I was sort of hoping that this internship would have the ice cream shop effect: you know, when you work at an ice cream parlor and get so sick of it that you never want to eat it again? Yeah, not so much. Why did nobody warn me about this?

Thursday, March 26, 2009

Adventures in Hot Glue Gunning, part 2

Update: I burned myself with the glue gun, and my the cardstock was too inflexible for the droopy slippery bun look of a Gibson Girl. However, I was assured that if there was ever an exhibit on 18th century court gowns, my wig would be perfect.

So I'm about 100 years off, but once we do a Marie Antoinette show everyone will be thanking me.

Wednesday, March 25, 2009

Adventures in Hot Glue Gunning, part 1

So the museum just got some amazing new mannequins, right? And they're super-cool and adjustable in a way that the old mannequins aren't, and they're specific to a time-period (late 1800s - early 1900s, Victorian to Progressive era, to be exact) so they have a silhouette that is commonly referred to as "pigeon-breasted," and they're wonderful, amazing, fantastic, the best thing since sliced bread, etc.

HOWEVER... they don't have hair. This normally wouldn't be a problem, of course. Most of our mannequins don't even have heads, and the ones that do are just these blank ovals that we leave bare. But these new mannequins have surprisingly well-defined facial features, which means that having them be bald just makes them look creepily like aliens in really gorgeous hospital gowns. But we can't use real wigs made of fake colored hair, because the mannequins are sheet-white. Having some strange white lady with the suggestion of facial features but a full-on titian red updo would end up being as distracting as leaving them bald.

So what's a museum to do? Why, get their trusty intern to make a paper wig! So that's what I did today - constructed a paper Gibson Girl* updo out of white pantyhose legs, thick cardstock, and tissue paper. And A LOT of hot glue. I felt like the MacGuyver of the museum world.

*as reference, this is what a Gibson Girl hairdo looks like. It was apparently very difficult to achieve - women would form the big loose bun with the tiny topknot and then fill in their hair with tissue paper in order to maintain the look. So actually, my paper wig isn't so far off the mark, materials-wise.


Tuesday, March 17, 2009

Correction!

In my last post I said that we had lots of Union stuff at the Chicago History Museum because, being in Illinois, we're all about Lincoln. This is true, but it turns out that we have some pretty awesome Confederate stuff too. I discovered today that we have Jefferson Davis' saddle and a cape worn by Robert E. Lee!

I wonder, are they stored near Lincoln's death bed, or would that be too awkward?

Tuesday, March 3, 2009

Me and General Slocum, chilling out, shooting the breeze, as one does

Christina was recently reading me the riot act over not posting enough about my new job, which is pretty much the most awesome thing ever. My response was that with my camera broken and now out of commission entirely, I didn't have any pictures of my fabulous (broke) new life in Chicago to post. "What's all this about pictures?" was her response. "Words, woman, words are where it's at! The blog is made of words! Words upon words of words, making a rainbow quilt of language!" Or something to that effect - it was late, I was tired, and the cell phone connection to Hawaii was sort of crap. So in that spirit, I want to tell you all a funny little story about my life in the costume collection.

A lot of what I end up doing at work is dusty and dirty. Last Wednesday, for instance, I got to work, unwrapped myself from the cumbersome winter gear that is uniform here in Chicago, and was promptly handed a swiffer. My mission? To clean the Chic Chicago gallery. "Chic Chicago" is the big costume exhibit that was mounted earlier in 2008. One of the best-received exhibits at the museum, it's a trip down the memory lane of fashion in Chicago. All the outfits displayed in the exhibit are considered haute couture or designer and were worn and owned by some of Chicago's most prominent women throughout the history of the city. It's a beautiful exhibit and lots of fun to look around, but what I was doing on Wednesday was getting up on the platforms and swiffering around the mannequins, hunting up dust. To do this, I donned a lab coat and latex gloves, in case I ended up having to touch one of the dresses. And then, to complete the look, I had to remove my boots and socks. They would have left marks on the display platforms, you see, scuffing up the exhibit. So there I am, in the middle of an open exhibit, scampering around antique and vintage gowns, some of which cost more than my four years of private university education combined, in a white lab coat, science-y looking latex gloves, and my stockinged feet. It was pretty absurd. I also felt a bit strange getting up close and personal with all these beautifully-clad blank-faced fiberglass mannequins.

So yeah, dirty. All of this, though, brings me to the point of this post: that a lot of what I do is awesome but it's usually the tiny little moments that make me realize it. Recently, for instance, one of the other interns and I were working in storage, cataloguing objects in the military uniforms section. At least 3/4s of the costume collection is made up of women's clothes because, let's be honest, throughout history women's clothes have been WAY more interesting than men's (the one possible exception to that rule being the clothes worn in the court of Louis XIV, because man, those dudes looked crazy). We do, however, have a sizable military costume collection, which is what we were working on. Military hats, to be exact, with a few ethnographic caps thrown in (you have probably never touched as many Masonic and Shriner hats as I have.)

One of the coolest hats I handled was an officer's cap from the Civil War. Union, of course, because this is Illinois, home of Lincoln, etc. etc. Navy blue (like I said: Union) with a silk braid across the bill and gold stitching forming laurel leaves at the front, it was ridiculously tiny. It also had an old tag on it, declaring that this was the cap worn by General Henry Warner Slocum (1827-1894.) Which begged the question: was this hat worn by a man named Henry Slocum who LATER became a general, or was he a general when he was wearing it? In the early 1860s he would have been in his mid to late 30's, right? So a little young for a general, but during the Civil War they went through generals like kindergarteners go through crayons, so age wasn't necessarily a great determinant for figuring out his status.

Regardless of whether he was a general during or after the Civil War, I got a little thrill out of holding a hat that had seen so much bloodshed and history. The bloodiest, most traumatic and heartrending of wars fought on American soil, the battles that turned brother against brother, and this lame little wool cap saw them all.

And then I handled another hat, this one extraordinarily dusty (and see? dirt comes up again. Full circle!) It was tan felt, with a wide flat brim that was covered in tan stitching details. Swirling around in curli-cues, the stitching was a remarkably detailed and even decorative touch on a hat that was otherwise entirely functional. And what did this very dirty hat's ancient tag say? "Taken from a Wyoming Indian at the Battle of Wounded Knee." Amazing, right? I mean, this hat was stolen off a man who, in all likelihood, was one of the 300 Native American slaughtered at the massacre. This hat was part of the battle (if you can call it that) that essentially ended the 100-plus-year conflict between white settlers and Indians. Maybe I'm geeking out over history to much, but I really couldn't get over this. And the dirt that I was complaining about? Some of it was probably original dirt from the battle. I had 120-year-old dirt and dried blood and Indian DNA and all sorts of other cool and creepy stuff all over my gloves and lab coat and clothes.

When I got home I looked up Henry Warner Slocum on Wikipedia. According to that venerable fount of knowledge, Slocum was a major general during the Civil War and later represented New York in Congress. One of the youngest Civil War generals, he earned criticism due to his slow movement and indecision on the battlefield at Gettysburg, earning him the nickname "Slow Come." So there you have it: from the hallowed battlefields of Gettysburg to the blood-washed site of a traumatic massacre to the humorous and infantile nickname of a young man who clearly had some time-lag issues, all through a bunch of gross old hats. See? My job is way cool.

Oh, and because it feels wrong to post this without ANY pictures, here is old "Slow Come" himself:

Thursday, February 12, 2009

Happy Birthday Mr. President...

In 19 minutes this will no longer be true, so I have to get it out quickly: today is Abraham Lincoln's 200th birthday!

I'm now living in the land of Lincoln, and all of Chicago has been consumed by Lincolnmania. Nowhere is this more true than at the Chicago History Museum, where I'm working. There are cardboard Lincolns mounted all over the museum, balloons and streamers, one cent admissions, and we even had birthday cake today!

So happy birthday, Abe! Stay classy.

Love,
S